American Jewelers of the Gilded Age

gem_head
Sep 28, 2020
12 min read

The inspiration for this article comes from my recent trip to Newport RhoneIsland - I drove up hoping to enjoy a good lobster roll, but must admit the seaside mansions ended up being the highlight of the visit. The lobster was delicious, but the mansions were glorious! It was obvious that no expense was spared in planning, building and decorating these mega mansions even though they were being used as summer retreats only three to four months a year.

We toured the Breakers mansion built by Cornelius Vanderbilt II in 1895 (pictured above). Breakers - the 70-room, 14 acre mansion sitting on the cliffs of Newport overlooking the Atlantic ocean is often called the epitome of the Gilded Age. But of course, Breakers is only one of many magnificent gilded age summer cottages in Newport. It was truly amazing to get a glimpse into the opulent world of America’s one percent during this golden era.

Having toured the mansions decorated in gold, I was curious to learn more about the jewels, gems, objects, as well as some of the artists and makers of the gilded age. The gilded age is often referred to as the American Renaissance of architecture and the arts.

The Gilded Age

For those not already familiar - the ‘Gilded Age’ coined by Mark Twain is the period between 1870 (post civil war) to about the early 1900s (pre world war I), when America become an industrial powerhouse with a growing number of large cities featuring skyscrapers, electricity, automobiles and subways. Twain was of course satirical in using the term because just like gilded metal, where there is only a thin surface of gold over underlying base metal, during the gilded age a small number of fabulously wealthy people got rich by exploiting vast numbers living in extreme poverty.

During this progressive era, an influx of immigrants from different parts of the world flooded American cities changing the very nature of American society - it was this change that prompted the wealthy to set themselves apart from the rest. Affluent East Coasters like the Morgans, the Carnegies, the Vanderbilts and the Rockefellers begun demanding bespoke ultra luxe goods to demonstrate their wealth and social status. This cultural decadence and demand for wearable wealth led to the birth of the luxury arts and crafts movement of the gilded age.

It is famously known that affluent Americans of the gilded age openly emulated the lifestyles of European royalty - they were proficient in multiple European languages, employed European butlers, chefs, au pairs and of course collected jewels, art, couture apparel and objects on their grand tours to Europe. However, with the rise of luxury arts and crafts movement of the 1890s, affluent Americans began to turn to local makers such as Tiffany&Co., Marcus&Co.,Dreicer&Co., Theodore B. Starr, Black Starr & Frost, J E Cladwell among many others of the day. They of course continued to patronize European brands such as Cartier, Van Cleef, Lalique, Boucheron, Chaumet and Fabrege as well.

Gilded Age Jewelry and Makers

Many gilded era jewels display influences of Art Nouveau styles featuring circular lines and swirls, while popular patterns and style effects for jewelry include bows and ribbons, moon and stars, flowers, garlands, leaves, birds, butterflies, shamrocks, scrolls and hearts.

Pearls and diamonds were most popular gems, however colored gemstones and colorful enamel (Plique-à-jour) also gained popularity during this era. Lesser known colored gemstones such as tsavorite garnets, morganites, montana sapphires and fire opals were popularized, especially by Tiffany&Co. backed by American gemologist George F. Kunz.

In terms of metals, platinum was a favorite during this period, multicolored gold was also popular including rose gold. Silver was occasionally used in jewelry, but more popular for personal objects and accessories such as vanity items, cigarette cases, pocket knives, hip flasks etc.

Below are the origin stories and some magnificent creations of four iconic gilded era American jewelers.

Tiffany&Co. (1837 - present)

In 1837, Charles Lewis Tiffany and John B. Young, opened a 'stationary and fancy goods' store at 259 Broadway NY, by the name of Tiffany & Young. The store expanded and in 1841 changed its name to Tiffany, Young and Ellis. In 1853 Tiffany bought out his partners and renamed the company Tiffany&Co.

Charles Lewis Tiffany took the business to the next level in 1870 when he moved to a fine cast-iron multi storied Italianate palace in Union Sq NY to open a luxury retail establishment dealing in fine jewelry, timepieces, luxury home and personal accessories.

At the turn of the 20th century, Tiffany&Co. has grown tremendously with extraordinary success - the company employed more than one thousand employees and managed international branches in London, Paris and Geneva. In 1878, Tiffany acquired the 128.54 carat Tiffany Yellow Diamond as well as a third of the French crown jewels at auction. That same year Tiffany & Co. became the first American jeweler to be awarded the Grand Prix for its display of Japanese-influenced silver, at the Exposition Universelle in Paris.

Tiffany&Co. was an unstoppable force in the global fine jewelry space of the early 20th century, two of the greatest designers of the decorative arts in American history dominated Tiffany&Co. during this time - Paulding Farnham (1859-1927) and Louis Comfort Tiffany (1848-1933). The gifted designers were backed by prominent chief gemologist George F Kunz. often referred to as America's most prominent early gem and mineral expert. Kunz introduced many new gemstones not only to Tiffany&Co., but to the world during the first two decades of the 20th century.

In 2018, Tiffany&Co. had 93 stores in the US and 321 stores worldwide with net sales totaling US$4.44 billion. Today, Tiffany&Co. continues this incredible legacy as one of the most iconic jewelry houses in the world.

Above: Chrysanthemum brooch of 'dog tooth' pearls from theMississippi Valley and diamonds designed by by Paulding Farnham for Musical Comedy Star Lilian Russell c. 1904

Above: The 'August Belmont Memorial Cup' made by Tiffany&Co. c. 1896 for winner of the Belmont Stakes. Commissioned by August Belmont II. The horses represented on the cup are Eclipse, Herod and Matchem bred in England in the 18th century, and every thoroughbred stallion is descended from one of these three sires.

Images belong to The MET©️

Above: No. 45 Orchid (depicting Oncidium Jonesianum variety of Orchid from Paraguay) made c. 1889 designed by Paulding Farnham for Tiffany&Co. This piece is a gift to the MET collection by Linda B. Brandi, in memory of Isabel Shults in 2016.

Farnham's Orchids are my all time favorite jewels, and have written a blog dedicated to this collection - if you wish to learn more about this collection, click here.

Images L-R:

Dragonfly hair ornament is one of the most remarkable works by Louis C. Tiffany c. 1904 The hair ornament was originally owned by and descended in the family of Louisine　Havemeyer, and currently on exhibit at the MET. (Image belongs to the MET©️)

Tiffany & Co. brooch, c. 1900 made in Platinum, gold, diamond, pearls, ruby, garnet, sapphire (Image belongs to Tiffany & Co. Archives©️)

Tiffany & Co., Pendant brooch, c. 1900. Platinum, diamonds, sapphire. (Image belongs to the Museum of the City©️ of New York, Bequest of Mrs. V. S. Young)

Marcus&Co. (1892-1962)

Herman Marcus emigrated to America from Germany and moved to New York City in 1850. Having trained as a gold and silversmith in Germany working for Ellemeyer the court jewelers of Dresden, Marcus was off to a good start in New York working for big name brands such as Tiffany&Co. and Ball, Black&Co. Herman Marcus left Tiffany&Co. to form Starr&Marcus with Theodore B. Starr before going into business with his son William in 1892 - they opened their store at at 857 Broadway, NY.

Marcus&Co. became renowned for their characteristic intricate and colorful Art Nouveau influenced plique-a-jour enamel work and high quality craftsmanship. These iconic pieces are much sought after even today. Marcus&Co. achieved great success serving high profile gilded age families in the East Coast. Post world war II, circa 1962, the firm merged with Black, Starr, and Frost.

It is also noteworthy that the renowned fine jeweler Raymond C. Yard, in fact began his career with Marcus&Co. as a door boy at the age of 13 before rising through the ranks to become the firm’s top salesperson. Later with the backing of one his best client's at Marcus&Co.,J D. Rockefeller, Yard started his own firm serving as one of the most trusted jewelers to the east coast gilded age social circle.

Above: 18k Gold, Plique-à-jour Enamel articulated Morning Glory pendant brooch by Marcus & Co. c. 1900. Originally owned by American actress Ada Rehan, the brooch and chain sold for US$302,500 at Sotheby's Magnificent Jewels auction of April 2011.

Gold, Black Opal and Enamel Sautoir by Marcus & Co. c. 1900 (Images belongs to Sotheby's ©️)

18K Gold, Opal, Enamel and Diamond Brooch by Marcus & Co. c. 1900s

Above: Gold, Emerald, Diamond, Plique-à-Jour Enamel Brooch by Marcus & Co., c.1900

Black, Starr & Frost (1810 - present)

According to the website of Black, Starr& Frost, the firm was the very first retailer on Fifth Avenue NYC, and America's first jeweler. The website also features a fabulous timeline of the company's history highlighting milestone achievements. Over the years, Black Starr&Frost have held many names and owed by multiple partners, but have continued to stay in business through two centuries, which is amazing to say the least.

In 1810, the founding owner Isaac Marquand opened Marquand & Co. at 164 Broadway NY., by the 1830s the company gained much popularity as the leading jewelry house in the nation, especially known for their silver.

In 1851 the company was one of the few American retailers admitted to participate at the London Crystal Palace Exhibition where they showcased an exquisite four-piece tea service made of pure gold. The same year, the name of the firm was changed to Ball, Black&Co. Following this success, the company is said to have built and moved to the most famous shop of its time at Broadway and Prince Street in New York City. The first fireproof building in New York at the time, it was constructed of white marble, and in its vaults they offered a modern safe deposit system. It's also said that their Southern clients demonstrate the ultimate act of client trust by bringing their valuables to the New York based store for safekeeping during the Civil War.

In 1874, Ball,Back&Co. was dissolved following the retirement of senior partners Ball and Moore and the death of William D. Black. The firm was renamed Black, Starr & Frost in 1874. In 1876, Black, Starr & Frost moved their jewelry salon to 251 Fifth Avenue.

Over the centuries, the firm catered to many high profile families, including European royalty. Among their clients: HRH the Prince of Wales, the Vanderbilts, the Guggenheims, the Carnegies, multiple Presidents of the USA and many others of the gilded era social circle.

In 2006, International Jeweler Alfredo J. Molina acquired the last remaining Black, Starr & Frost store in Costa Mesa, California and have since opened a second store in Phoenix, Arizona. And so the monumental legacy of Black, Starr and Frost continues today.

Above: Platinum, Rock Crystal, Onyx and Diamond brooch by Black Starr & Frost c. 1920

Above: AN AMERICAN SILVER Five-piece TEA SET, RETAILED BY BLACK, STARR AND FROST, NEW YORK c. 1910

Above: Pair of 14 Karat Gold Cufflinks by Black Starr & Frost - monogrammed JJA for John Jacob Astor.

Images belong to Sotheby's©️

Above L-R: Platinum-Topped Gold and Diamond Brooch by Black Starr & Frost, c. 1880

Platinum and Diamond Brooch by Black, Starr&Frost c.1920

Above: Platinum, Jadeite and Diamond Brooch by Black Starr & Frost, c. 1925

Dreicer& Co. ( circa 1884- circa 1927)

The origins and timelines of Dreicer&Co. are quite muddled because the company dissolved many decades ago, and very few records remain today. There are multiple incorrect records on the internet, for this reason I strictly referred to only one reference in compiling my research - the master's thesis of Anna Rasche published in 2018.

Jacob Dreicer emigrated to America from Russia with his young family in 1867 with the hopes of realizing the American dream. A very industrious Jacob is said to have started his business selling pocket knives before moving into diamond dealing.

Although the path from pocket knives to diamonds is unclear, by the 1880s, Jacob had built a reputation for dealing in diamonds and pearls. In 1884,Jacob opened a shop at 1128 Broadway NY. Dreicer soon became a name synonymous with fine jewels gaining a number of significant purchasers from high profile gilded era names such as Adelaide Mott Bell, wife of wealthy cotton investor Isaac Bell, the Astors and President James Garfield. As the jewelry business grew, Jacob is said to have expanded into real estate ventures as well.

In 1892, the business moved from the Broadway location to a state-of-the-art retail space at 292 5th Avenue, and changed name to J. Dreicer & Son to reflect Jacob's son Michael’s growing role. Michael Dreicer was a renowned pearl connoisseur and it's believed that his expert understanding of pearls lead to the firm's popularity in America during the gilded era. The Pearl was after all the signature jewel of the Gilded age.

Michael was also known to frequently travel to Paris, among other European cities for design inspiration and sourcing of fine gems including pearls. Dreicer was known to have produced jewels that rivaled Cartier with luxurious designs in platinum and diamonds as well as pearls. And had built a reputation as the first in New York to introduce the latest diamond cuts from Paris. According to Rasche, jewelry historian Hans Nadelhoffer called Dreicer & Co. Cartier’s “most feared rival” in New York, and stated that Dreicer “did not shrink from copying models in the Rue de la Paix and putting them on sale faster than Cartier’s American branch could import them.” At the turn of the 2oth century, Dreicer had solidified their place among fifth avenue luxury jewelers, and was considered one of the best among large names as Tiffany&Co. and Cartier. Dreicer&Co. maintained a very successful branch at the Blackstone Hotel in Chicago as well.

Unfortunately due to the untimely death of Micheal Dreicer, and the death of his father 18 days later, the business had to be dissolved in 1921. During the liquidation it is said that Cartier bought most of the remaining inventory. The last day of business under the Dreicer&Co banner is recorded as the February 28th, 1927.

It was quite challenging to locate photos of Dreicer&Co. jewels pre 1900s, below pieces are from the early 20th century c. 1910 -1925.

Above: Platinum and Diamond Bow Brooch by Dreicer&Co., Circa 1910

Above: Art Deco Emerald and Diamond Brooch By Dreicer&Co. c. 1925

Above: Platinum, Pearl, Diamond and Onyx Wristwatch, Dreicer & Co., c. 1925

Above: Possibly one of the most valuable Dreicer&Co. jewels auctioned is the Pink Diamond ring set in a signature Dreicer&Co. setting. This fabulous nine carat pink diamond ring belonged to the American mining and railroad heiress, Huguette M. Clark. The ring was found locked up in a safety deposit box, forgotten for many years. When it sold at the Christie's auction of 2012 for approx. US$ 15M, it became the most expensive pink diamond ever seen at auction in the US. The ring was subsequently offered in auction again in 2015 by Sotheby's mounted on a different setting, and again sold for approx. $15M.

Similar to the Tiffany&Co. signature six prong solitaire ring, Dreicer&Co. is also known to have developed a signature ring setting - crafted in platinum, the head featured four prongs on a narrow knife-edge band embellished with pavé diamonds with milgrain detailing on shoulders. I believe the Clark pink diamond above is mounted on a signature Dreicer&Co. setting. References:

American History TV. (2014, January 23). Gilded Age New York [Video file]. Retrieved from https://www.c-span.org/video/?318362-1/american-artifacts-gilded-age-york

B, G. (n.d.). Black, Starr & Frost: history and marks. Retrieved from http://www.silvercollection.it/USASILBLACKSTARRFROST.html

Black, Starr&Frost. (n.d.). Black Starr & Frost | Fine Luxury Time Line Collections. Retrieved September 27, 2020, from https://blackstarrfrost.com/timeline-2/

Christie’s. (2020, March 26). A guide to Tiffany & Co. — an American institution. Retrieved September 27, 2020, from https://www.christies.com/features/Tiffany-and-Co-Collecting-Guide-9494-1.aspx

Falino, B. J. (2016, February 1). All That Glitters: Jewelry From New York’s Gilded Age by Jeannine Falino | Incollect. Retrieved September 27, 2020, from https://www.incollect.com/articles/jewelers-of-new-york-in-the-gilded-age

Holland, E. (2013, December 16). The Museum of the City of New York Presents: Gilded New York. Retrieved September 27, 2020, from https://www.edwardianpromenade.com/new-york-city/the-mcny-presents-gilded-new-york/

Hughes, T. (n.d.). The $1.5 Million Astor Diamond Ring. Retrieved September 27, 2020, from http://thegildedageera.blogspot.com/2013/01/the-15-million-astor-diamond-ring.html

Kang, B. (2014, May 1). A Short Introduction to the Great Early American Jewellers. Retrieved September 27, 2020, from https://www.revivaljewels.com/in-the-know/a-short-introduction-to-the-great-early-american-jewellers

Lang Antiques. (n.d.). Marcus & Co. | Antique Jewelry University. Retrieved September 27, 2020, from https://www.langantiques.com/university/marcus-co/

Loring, J. (2000). Paulding Farnham: Tiffany’s Lost Genius. New York, New York: Harry N. Abrams Inc.

Rasche, A. W. (2018). Dreicer & Company: Forgotten Jewelers of the Gilded Age. Retrieved from https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/cc21/f947e25e542f7a4ba8e609b88423217cc698.pdf

The Verma Group. (n.d.). Discovering the Eras of Jewelry. Retrieved September 27, 2020, from https://www.vermaestatejewelry.com/blogs/articles/discovering-the-eras-of-jewelry

Victoriana Magazine. (2014, December 28). All The Glitter and the Gold: Gilded New York. Retrieved September 27, 2020, from http://www.victoriana.com/all-the-glitter-and-the-gold-gilded-new-york/

www.historycollection.com. (2018, October 14). 16 Spending Habits of the Gilded Age That Makes Today’s Wealthy Look Frugal. Retrieved September 27, 2020, from https://historycollection.com/16-spending-habits-of-the-gilded-age-that-makes-todays-wealthy-look-frugal/12/

Yost, M. (2008, December 20). Cleveland Museum of Art’s Gilded Age Jewelry Exhibit. Retrieved September 27, 2020, from https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB122973952657423557

Images

Christie’s. (n.d.-a). AN ART DECO EMERALD AND DIAMOND BROOCH, BY DREICER & CO. [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.christies.com/lotfinder/jewelry/an-art-deco-emerald-and-diamond-brooch-4925743-details.aspx?from=searchresults&intObjectID=4925743

Christie’s. (n.d.-b). Clark Pink Diamond By Dreicer&Co. [Photograph]. Retrieved from http://www.thejewelleryeditor.com/search/images/?q=Clark+Pink

Loring, J., & Tiffany&Co. (2000a). August Belmont Memorial Cup [Photograph]. In Paulding Farnham: Tiffany’s Lost Genius (p. 21).

Loring, J., & Tiffany&Co. (2000b). Chrysanthemum Brooch by Tiffany&CO. [Photograph]. In Paulding Farnham: Tiffany’s Lost Genius (p. 38).

Metropolitan Museum of Art. (n.d.-a). Dragon Fly Hair Ornament [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.metmuseum.org

Metropolitan Museum of Art. (n.d.-b). Orchid Brooch [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.metmuseum.org

Sotheby’s. (n.d.-a). 14k Gold Cufflinks by Black Starr & Frost [Photgraph]. Retrieved from https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2012/property-from-the-estate-of-brooke-astor-n08890/lot.841.html?locale=en

Sotheby’s. (n.d.-b). 18K Gold, Opal, Enamel and Diamond Brooch [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2014/magnificent-jewels-n09234/lot.77.html?locale=en

Sotheby’s. (n.d.-c). Five Piece Tea Set by Black,Starr&Frost [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2012/americana-vo-n08950/lot.156.html?locale=en

Sotheby’s. (n.d.-d). Gold, Emerald, Diamond, Plique-à-Jour Enamel Brooch by Marcus & Co [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2010/always-in-style-150-years-of-artistic-jewels-n08626/lot.51.html?locale=en

Sotheby’s. (n.d.-e). Gold, Opal and Enamel Sautoir, Marcus & Co [Photographs]. Retrieved from https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/lot.341.html/2013/magnificent-jewels-n09054

Sotheby’s. (n.d.-f). Morning Glory pendant brooch by Marcus&Co [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2011/magnificent-jewels-n08732/lot.338.html

Sotheby’s. (n.d.-g). Platinum and Diamond Bow Brooch, Dreicer & Co [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2010/magnificent-jewels-n08687/lot.418.html

Sotheby’s. (n.d.-h). PLATINUM AND DIAMOND BROOCH by BLACK, STARR & FROST [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2007/arcade-jewels-n08307/lot.344.html?locale=en

Sotheby’s. (n.d.-i). Platinum, Jadeite and Diamond Brooch by Black Starr & Frost, c. 1925 [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2011/magnificent-jewels-n08732/lot.284.html?locale=en

Sotheby’s. (n.d.-j). Platinum, Pearl, Diamond and Onyx Wristwatch, Dreicer & Co [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2012/important-jewels-n08827/lot.85.html?locale=en

Sotheby’s. (n.d.-k). Platinum, Rock Crystal, Onyx and Diamond brooch by Black Starr & Frost [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2013/important-jewels-n08965/lot.63.html?locale=en

Sotheby’s. (n.d.-l). Platinum-Topped Gold and Diamond Brooch by Black Starr & Frost [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2012/magnificent-jewels-n08843/lot.316.html?locale=en

Tiffany&Co. (n.d.-a). Tiffany & Co. brooch [Photograph]. Retrieved from http://www.victoriana.com/all-the-glitter-and-the-gold-gilded-new-york/

Tiffany&Co. (n.d.-b). Tiffany & Co., Pendant brooch, [Photograph]. Retrieved from http://www.victoriana.com/all-the-glitter-and-the-gold-gilded-new-york/